King’s Cross

Yesterday I chose sleep over art. Before you label me an uncultured swine, note that I had to scroll to the second page of museums listed on TripAdvisor before I found one I hadn’t visited. I did manage to haul myself to a magical place though: that’s right, another train station.

IMG_0387

As it turns out, King’s Cross is a real train station where people go to get on trains. Incredibly, they seemed unperturbed by the proximity of Hogwarts Express. I asked the Starbucks barista where the Harry Potter store is. She said, it’s at 9 and three quarters. Then she said, it’s to the left.

After a quick but necessary detour into the Urban Decay shop, I found the line for the Harry Potter store. I wasn’t expecting a line to get into a store, but it serpentined across the floor and outside the station. The line was so long I worried I was going to actually end up on a train, but the dividers were reassuring.

IMG_0389

Once the front of the line was within eyesight, it became clear that everyone took a picture with the trolley that was half through the portal.

IMG_0397

Look at this trolley!

IMG_0393

I wasn’t sold on this and in fact tried to skip it, but was shamed into performing this pose.

IMG_0422

That’s right, I’m a Ravenclaw.

The store itself was a madhouse of sweating bodies and merchandise flying off the shelves, though usually not of its own volition.

IMG_0401

 

Sadly the items I had in mind were out of stock, and there wasn’t a single tank top to be had in any size. The store has a separate wand room which would be fun if not for the crushing and madding crowd. And anyway I had already bought eyeliner from Urban Decay, which is the closest thing to a magic wand I’ll ever need. I made a few—9.75?—selections, and then I let the crowd push me out.IMG_0400

The weather has been warm and beautiful in London, a fact my Uber driver commented on between questions about American politics.

The store was fun and a bit surreal, but this was definitely the most magical moment.

IMG_0423

Goodbye, Italy

As a result of a narrowly won altercation with a gastro intestinal disagreement, today was spent in a dark room listening to the sweet sound of hotel demolition. I did manage to get out and have a pizza, which was served uncut and as one size. It’s easy to forget those European details—the street signs as placards on the side of buildings, the ubiquitous cigarettes, the shoe-destroying cobble stones, the rationed water in restaurants. I did run across an exciting new issue, and that is the fact that Italian post offices do not sell stamps. You have to get stamps at tobacco shops. I went to about five tobacco shops over the course of two days, and none had stamps. I am starting to wonder if mail is a thing here. I haven’t seen any compelling evidence. So, this means that my Italian post cards will be posted from England

In my stamps search, I ventured into the Milan central TRAIN STATION whaaaat. Yes I did. As expected, the building is impressive and huge. Inside is a mall, which included a post office that did no sell stamps and also a tobacco shop that did not sell stamps.

Overall though I will say the train station had some charm.

IMG_0364

Also, I had tiramisu, which made me forget about everything else for a bit.

IMG_0361

Tomorrow I fly to England!

 

 

Back in the saddle

Well well well look where we are. For those of you sick enough to still follow this airing of grievances thinly veiled as a blog, here is that sweet, sweet payoff.

I am in Milan.

Milan is in northern Italy, a country I missed on my last international trip. I didn’t avoid Italy on purpose–it just didn’t work out. I did end up visiting a baker’s dozen countries, though, so consider that before you label me an uncultured swine.

This trip was no less spur of the moment. One day I wake up and go to work, and the next day I wake up and go to Milan. This is how I roll now*.

The morning was a little tense for me as I realized I am again far from home and alone, but as soon as I got back on that beautiful red tour bus, I felt at ease again.

When I think of Milan I think of fashion, and indeed this was the first place to have a centuries-old cathedral smell like the mall.

PxLPLKDxRYjOP9Z6WUtbVMIiYrdJuhzf0wFVogPuTG4.jpg

This is the Duomo, a Gothic masterpiece with a facade so detailed, I could hardly focus on any one thing.  I had a hard time understanding some of the sculptures. Hagiography is certainly not my strong suit, but doesn’t this guy look like he’s hitting a bong?

Mywb-wEMwJLWcFI209b18eQFs_Yxoe3syOgeHtzcf3o.jpg

And what about this guy, is he about to do some lumber jacking?

EkCraDq1I2dJimGixCVTQojBxiH8h4r_4vAuSkZ-SNg.jpg

I do not understand religion I guess.

wL2Bm5JVYWyEQlNb3Co4Ekckil6DEc8B_2CnnmHqlk8.jpg

I could not see the inside of the Duomo today because silly me I wore a tank top in the 90 degree heat. One MUST cover one’s shoulders. Never mind that the pillars across the street are sculptures of topless women.

In addition to not going into the Duomo, I did not go into the Castle Sforzesco.

J6v296tBz5aaO4SLvRZrAYSoozXri8qvXwRPqIpVoaM-1.jpg

Inside the castle itself is a castle museum, which I skipped and instead  went through the courtyard and into the Parco Sempione. On the other side of the park is the arch–every European city must have an arch–though instead of victory, this is the Arch of Peace.

ui91XJttpwN4zSd45CQqDUwGzTPWhvjBEW8_pPPOZhE.jpg

I’m not sure the sculptures atop this beauty scream peace at me, but maybe the warriors are all waving a cheery ciao.

Of course, what is a European city with out some gratuitous fountains?

-GT4zHU-H55fo5Ctm9LGfWWkHGpZOzK-YiVL6u8Bgsc.jpg

It has been too hot to eat, but after this siesta/blog time I will venture back out to investigate the culinary arts.

For those in the know, Milan houses one of the most famous paintings of all time, The Last Supper. I will not be able to see it with my own eyeballs as one must secure tickets months in advance. So, dear reader, if you do follow in my stumbling footsteps, plan ahead if you wish to see that spicy meatball.

Stay tuned for more uncropped pictures and unsolicited advice.

Currently reading: Rick Steves Italy, The Magician’s Land by Lev Grossman, and The Winter’s Tale by Shakespeare.

 

*very, very occasionally

Helpful Items, Part II

The advice “travel light” is not without merit, but I do recommend considering packing the following items for any extended trip. I was either glad I brought this stuff or had to buy it on the fly.

Hand Fan

img_8263Yes, it rained A LOT during my trip, but there was enough sun and heat to make a spur-of-the-moment purchase of a street vendor hand fan a life-changing event. Even if it’s not that warm outside, walking for miles and hauling your pack around is sweaty work. And buses? Sweaty. Very, very sweaty. A/C is not so much of a thing in Europe as it is here, so you have to make your own wind, just like Tyra Banks intended.

 

 

 

Pocket Mirror

img_8264

Another golden impulse buy—the pocket mirror saved me from countless embarrassments. Blotting my sweaty face with paper napkins almost always shredded the napkin and left huge pieces of lint fluttering on my face. And with the wind and rain, everyone needs to know what the hell is going on with their hair before they step into a nice restaurant. Also, you can signal people with sunlight if you get bored.

 

 

 

 

Scarf

img_7258You may have noticed I am not especially fashion minded. Probably this is due to the fact that fashionable clothing is not made in my a) size or b) budget, so I have given up and wear basically the same thing every day. Yes, I brought six identical black tank tops to Europe. Not having to worry about putting together an outfit only gave me more time to explore and eat new foods. I brought a scarf, but it wasn’t an infinity scarf and kept falling off. I gave up on it and bought an infinity scarf from a street vendor at the gay pride event in Hamburg. Dad loved shopping there so it was extra special. My advice, bring one or two infinity scarves to change up your wardrobe. They won’t fall off and you’ll look at least slightly different in your pictures. Plus, they are light and easy to pack.

Umbrella
Invest in one that won’t turn inside out and backwards. I never found one.

Dry Shampoo
*Cue the Hallelujah music* Dry Shampoo! If you haven’t already joined the dry shampoo revolution, you have a wonderful surprise in store. You do not have to be a slave to long showers and the hairdryer anymore. I use this brand, which I recommend if you can stomach the price. This brand is less expensive and nearly as effective, though dry shampoo in general can smell and feel gnarly. Try a few out before you decide what works for you. If the first three or four do not work—DO NOT GIVE UP. There are loads of options, and the time and energy saved by using dry shampoo cannot be overstated. Still not convinced? Observe the picture above. That’s 4th or possibly 5th day hair. This is my life now. I can’t imagine getting up an hour earlier every day to wash, condition, gel, mousse, protect, dry, then curl my hair. Forget it.

Eye shade
I am a napper, so using an eye shade is nothing new to me. I used an eye shade on the plane and a few trains, but it mostly came in handy in my actual Airbnbs as I was trying to sleep at night—it stayed lighter A LOT later in northern Europe and it screwed up my sleeping schedule (go to sleep early and sleep in as late as possible). This particular shade has convex areas for your eyelashes so you don’t wake up with bedhead on your face.

Pocket Kleenex
This one is probably pretty obvious, but I went through a lot more Kleenex than I thought I would. Pack triple what you think you need. I ended up using this not only for sneezes, but for napkins, blotting paper, and toilet paper.

Handkerchief
I had my dad bring me an actual handkerchief because I was going through so much Kleenex just blotting my face. A handkerchief is greener, classier, and won’t leave lint all over your lip hairs.

Benedryl
So they don’t have the same drugs in Europe. For over the counter stuff, bring what you like to use, but also bring Benedryl. You never know what exciting new pollen you’ll be allergic to, and Benedryl can double as a sleep aid.

Books
I brought The Stand and Daisy Miller and Other Stories knowing I’d trash them or leave them behind as I finished them. The Stand was very satisfying to finish because it cleared up so much room in my bag. Bring a few paperbacks you know will be entertaining but not lifelong companions. I bought a few books while on the road, too, trying to keep this same philosophy.

Things I Thought I’d Use But Didn’t

Compass
I brought a small compass, but I used the compass app on my phone almost exclusively. I forgot I even had a real compass.

Reusable Water Bottle
I was gung-ho to go green and use this collapsible water bottle, but ultimately it just made more sense to reuse regular water bottles, and then recycle them when they became unwieldy.

Bungee
Several travel blogs suggested this adjustable cord to help you hang your laundry, but I never needed it. The Airbnbs always had a rack or a lot of closet space where I could hang things to dry.

Earplugs
I am an earplugs advocate, and even though there were some loud nights, I didn’t like using the ear plugs when I was travelling—I wanted to be alerted to the noises around me. The exception was when Dad and I shared a hotel room. He snores. A lot.

Inflatable Travel Neck Pillow
I love the idea of this pillow and used it on my redeye from SFO to Madrid, but I never really fell asleep. The pillow shifts ever so slightly as you finally relax your neck on to it, even when the pillow is secured in front. It’s just not that comfortable. I do like that I could deflate it to take up less space in my bag, though, and for that reason alone it is superior to other U-shaped travel pillows.

Take what you will from this. Remember, whatever you packed is what’s going with you.

Helpful Items, Part I

Being away from your comfort zone and all your usual comfort objects eventually becomes stressful. For me it was stressful after about 40 minutes. Here are some things I packed that made travelling a bit easier.

Portable cell phone charger
This was a life saver. If you take only one thing I recommend, take this. My phone was my map and my notepad and my audio book player, so I was using it constantly. Like any cell phone these days, my iPhone 6s does not have a great battery life. I combated the dwindling % gauge with this portable charger, which holds 2-3 full charges before it has to be recharged itself. Now, the charging isn’t super fast and having your phone connected to it as you use your phone to navigate can be a bit of a tangled pain when you are also using earphones, but the alternative is death. The only drawback is the grey cord this portable charger uses to charge itself is small, unique to this device (no regular old USB cord will do) and easy to lose. Do what I did and keep all your cords in the same gallon ziplock bag.

Gallon Ziplock Bags
Yes, there are many bags out there for holding your makeup, toiletries, shoes, food, and whatever, but I quickly found that being able to see into the bag saved a lot of time and frustration. I packed about six Ziplock bags and had Dad bring me six more when he met me in Copenhagen (they don’t last forever and once a shampoo explodes, that bag is pretty done with life). I would recommend at least bringing a dozen. They are lightweight, take up almost no space, and it’s much better to have them and not need them.

Travel Adapter
I brought two of these travel adapters and they worked everywhere I went (Spain, France, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany, Czech Republic, Denmark, Latvia, England, and Ireland—I didn’t charge anything in Sweden so I can’t be sure they would work there). You can use the usual two- or three- pronged electric plug and/or a regular USB. I had to figure out how to use all the different prongs in the back—or maybe VR helped me—but once I had that down, it was all good. I am glad I brought two so I could charge all of my items overnight if I wanted/needed to. The only problem is these are a bit bulky.

Earbuds
Bring at least two pairs. I went through three—using them for hours every day inevitably lead to their untimely demise. Don’t buy expensive ones like I did. Just get some cheap ones from the checkout counter at Walgreens.

International Cell Phone
I wasn’t going to bring one of these—it seemed excessively over-prepared to do so, but I ended up using my international cell phone a lot when some one ripped off my ATM number and my debit card was rendered inactive. Calling Wells Fargo was a horrible experience, and I can’t imagine how much more stressful it would have been had I not even had a phone to do so with. I got the JT phone on the suggestion of CC, and am REALLY glad I did. You just add more minutes as needed by buying more on their website. This of course requires a credit card—luckily I had another one as I was going through the Wells Fargo malarkey.

Tablet
I brought two phones, a laptop, and a tablet with me, which even to me seemed like too much. I thought bringing my Kindle was a bit indulgent, but it actually was one of my most soothing comfort objects in that I could watch American television via Netflix or Amazon Prime. Sometimes at the end of a long day of culture and history I just needed to watch Teen Wolf.

Woolite Individual Laundry Packets
Staying in Airbnbs with a washer available saved a lot of time and stress—I can barely function in an American laundromat, imagine me dealing with a soap dispenser machine that doesn’t even speak English. No thank you. Filter your Airbnb search to places with washers available (dryers too if you’re not staying more than a few days—laundry needs at least 24 hours to air dry in my experience) and have these handy packets with you. Woolite is gentle on your clothes and works with all fabrics (all that I wear, anyway). I definitely used less laundry soap as I was travelling so as to ration these, but if you pack enough, you can use the usual excessive amount. Also, even if you don’t have a washer, one packet of Woolite will do for a quick wash of your underthings in the sink and the crotch area of your jeans. One relevant thing I noticed: many European places have heated racks for hanging laundry to dry on. They may actually just be towel warmers, but I used them to speed the drying process.

Antibacterial Gel
I didn’t end up using as much antibac as I thought I would, but there were definite times I was desperate to de-germ. I would pack two or three of these (I ended up losing one and another one was taken at the airport because GASP! LIQUID!) for those especially dirty moments.

More essential items on the way.

Travel Apps, Part II

Once you know what you want to do, sometimes just figuring out what it takes to do it can be paralyzing. Here are some apps that helped me get my shit together and figure out how to take my head out of my ass. Weird image, just forget it.

Xe Currency Exchange

img_8089I’m an English major, you do the math. But really, who can convert currencies all the time? Even given the EU, I used five different currencies as I travelled, and this app helped give me an idea of how much 200 Czech korunas is in real money or what to expect once I change my folding money at the exchange booth at the airport (hint: don’t do it there) (hint II: no one wants your coins, so spend them all before you leave the country or end up with ziplock sacks full of foreign coinage like me).

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yandex Translate

img_8090Also like me, maybe you don’t speak any language other than English. There are a quadrillion translation apps out there, and a lot of them are terrible. The most useful one I found is Yandex Translate, which helped with French, German, Dutch, and Spanish. These are just the languages I used—there are loads others. Download the languages you’ll be using and you can translate from there to English and back. It was useful to review some basic words on the train before I arrived somewhere—please, thank you, hello, goodbye, and English were about all I could handle—but people seemed to appreciate even that small effort. Most of the people I encountered spoke at least a little English, but it can’t be taken for granted that wherever you go, people will know what you’re saying. This app was also ace at helping me translate street names, words on menus, and directions. The other two translation apps I used are Google Translate and iThinkdiff Czech Dictionary.

 

 

Rail Planner

img_8091Of all the apps, this one was probably the most crucial to the success (… er, completion?) of my trip. This is the app Interrail and Eurail users are advised to download to track and plan train times, and it doesn’t require wifi. You don’t have to actually have a Eurail pass to use this train app, so if you are just looking to ride the rails one day, this is still for you; just throw in your starting point and ending point, date and time of travel, and get the relevant train schedules. Now, this was NOT helpful when the trains were on strike. Also, you cannot buy or reserve train tickets via the app (so, so annoying). Because of this, you have to do a reality check about whether the trains are a) actually running and b) sold out. It gave me a ball park idea about my schedule though, and what to aim for when I went to the long distance/international tickets booth at the train station to reserve tickets. If the clerk didn’t speak English (common, though Eurail would have you believe otherwise—bleg!), I could easily bring up the schedule I wanted on the app for the clerk to view. If there was no room on that train (uncommon but it did happen), I could easily modify my search to a slightly different time and have the clerk check again. You could also filter results by direct trains (no layovers) and view which trains were high speed. Another feature I didn’t notice at first was that once you select a schedule, you can view each stop between your departure and destination. This was helpful to me because I like to watch each stop go by and confirm and double confirm that I am indeed on the right train. You may call this a bit obsessive, but it helped when my father put us on the fast track to the north pole on accident. I was able to confirm and double confirm that he was totally wrong and then find another train. I was in charge of all trains from then on. Also, this app includes long distance bus schedules.

Uber

img_8092Uber is not a company I want to exalt, but for sheer convenience sometimes it can’t be beat. When you don’t speak the language, calling a taxi is even more intimidating than usual. With Uber, you can type in your destination (or paste it from Yelp) and wait for your ride. Now, Uber only works if you have wifi at the pick up point, so you might have to find a Starbucks or McDonald’s to start from. But after a long day of walking, sometimes you just want to Uber your ass back to your hotel/Airbnb/friend’s couch. Now, Uber does not operate everywhere. Uber was banned in Germany during my time there, and the articles I read about it suggested using MyTaxi app instead. BEWARE! You have to have wifi at both the pickup AND drop off locations. I didn’t have wifi at my drop off location, which happened to be a park, and I had to pay in cash on the spot—not what I had planned! People always say “don’t carry a lot of cash” but honestly had I not always been carrying a significant amount of money with me, I would have been screwed several times (credit card getting declined, restaurant not accepting any credit cards, etc.).

TripIt

img_8093I read about Tripit while researching what apps are good to have as you travel. I ended up purchasing the pro version of this app—something I almost never do. TripIt is an itinerary organizer. You forward your confirmation emails (flight, hotel, airbnb, event tickets) to plans@tripit.whatever, and the app organizes your information. All your confirmation codes, addresses, and contact info is in one area. Once you download the app, you can access your travel info offline. The pro feature keeps you updated on gate changes for your flight and other last minute alerts. You can also share your itinerary with your friends, so they can easily look up your flight number to see if yours was the plane that crashed. Tripit was a great substitute for my usual hard-copy folder full of confirmation emails (a system I still prefer but could not maintain without a printer), and though it required intermittent wifi, I never failed to figure out how to use it. I still use it now just to organize my hotel reservations back here in reality.

City Mapper

img_7465For getting around in London, City Mapper is the app to use. It has other cities as well, but I used it only for London, and it helped me navigate the buses and underground. Like Rail Planner, you can put in your starting and ending points and get suggestions for how to get there. London is HUGE, so be prepared to take a bus to the underground to another bus to another bus, but all the while you can track your progress on City Mapper. Wifi is needed though, so I took a screen shot of the route to refer to. Also, you have to have an Oyster card to ride the bus, so look into how to get one of those before you hop on a double decker. Individual tickets for the underground can be purchased at ticket kiosks though, so go nuts, but mind the gap.

 

 

Health

img_8096There’s an app that comes with the iPhone that is called “health” and has a heart icon. This was fun only in that it tracked how far I walked. At first it was interesting to see what a change it was from my real life, but eventually I learned that after six miles, I was pretty much done, so I could make decisions on where I wanted to go based on how far I’ve come, and at what point I will poop out. Know your limits and all that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lonely Planet Guides

img_8097I occasionally used Lonely Planet Guides for ideas on what to do. Many times there were things not mentioned by TripAdvisor or Yelp, notably Faust House in Prague, but mostly this app would be useful to someone planning far in advance. My on-the-go day-by-day w-t-f planning didn’t dovetail with the lay out of this app, though it is very pretty and informative.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Apps I thought I’d Use But Didn’t

I did a lot of research about what apps to download prior to my trip, and these two were suggested again and again.

SmartTraveler

img_8098This is an app probably put out by the US government to help Americans as they travel. You select a country and then can find the embassies and consulate offices there along with safety information. It is a very dry read. I considered using it once when I thought I might have to contact my embassy when my debit card got stolen, but thankfully I didn’t have to handle it that way. It’s not a bad app to have, just in case.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Rick Steves Audio Europe

img_8099How annoying is Rick Steves? I listened to several podcasts from this app before I left, but found them lacking in both entertainment and informational value. Maybe if you have loads, and I mean loads, of time to plan, you can slash your way through all these podcasts, but reading his Europe through The Back Door was more than enough. He sounds like a morning person who has never been delayed by a hair emergency. I just can’t deal with that type of person.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There were several apps that I deleted along the way due to their utter uselessness, but I can’t remember what they were. Good luck out there in the app store!

Travel Apps, Part I

Traveling without reliable internet access made for quite an adventure—if you can afford keeping your phone plan with data as you travel, do it. I wish I would have just spent the money and then had access to all my pins and bookmarks and ideas as I was on the go. That being said, even without the internet, certain phone apps were extremely helpful and I recommend you download all of them before you travel.

Google maps
img_8081
With Google maps, you can download the map of a city while you have wifi and then access that map any time. You probably already have this app downloaded, so this one is sort of a no brainer. I used Google maps in every city with very little, if any, difficulty. Sometimes the app could even track my location on the map WITHOUT WIFI. This was of course mind blowing for me and so convenient I almost felt comfortable. Almost.

 

 

Compass
img_8082There is an app called “Compass” and it is just that—a digital arrow pointing north. I used this all the time to orient myself before I set off. I very much want to know in what direction my accommodations are in relation to a large landmark if possible, and this free app never failed, with or without wifi.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yelp
img_8083Again, you probably already use Yelp on your phone. Now, without wifi Yelp can be pretty useless, but if you have time before you are out and about, you can plan your snack stops based on the map function on Yelp’s bookmarks page. Bookmark the places you want to visit—Yelp has basically everything—and then view your bookmarks in map form rather than list form. Note the addresses and you can plug them in to Google maps while you’re out for specific directions. Bam, done. The only city that did not have Yelp was Riga, Latvia, but that’s okay because there was

 

 

 

 

TripAdvisor
img_8084TripAdvisor is like Yelp’s older brother who’s been working on his PhD for over a decade and knows a metric ton of stuff if you just know what to ask. TripAdvisor was a great complement to Yelp and many times had more specific reviews, particularly for hotels. You can filter the reviews by key word (mine were always “wifi,” “noise,” “safe,” and “clean,” if you don’t know how I roll already) and also read the responses from the hotel staff. TripAdvisor has great lists of things to do in each city. After the first page or two of obvious choices—Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame Cathedral, Louvre—you get a lot of info on the different types of tours available. This was useful to me when I was trying to figure out how to get to Stonehenge from London. Had I not used TripAdvisor, I probably would have just taken a bus from the tourist office and saw only the henge. As it turns out, I found a tour that included Avebury, which was just as special as Stonehenge and sort of on the way. TripAdvisor requires wifi though, so do your searching at night when you’re in your

Airbnb
img_8085The Airbnb website and app can be convoluted, so spend some time learning the filters and pages before you’re on the road. The app helped with communicating with my hosts, though a lack of wifi can interfere with that. Overall, using the app was far easier than the website for quick emails to my hosts—and I found myself doing that at least once per stop. Note: with only one exception, my Airbnb accommodations had MUCH BETTER wifi then hotels. The trade off is you can leave the hotel room a total disaster, but you better clean up and wipe down everything before you leave an Airbnb.

 

 

 

 

Overdrive, Audible, Kindle
img_8086Overdrive is a audiobook app (like Audible) that connects to your existing library card (unlike Audible). Once you download Overdrive and sign in with your library card information, you can access the library’s catalogue of audiobooks (and ebooks, if you are an alien and can read whole novels on a screen) for free. Both Overdrive and Audible require wifi to search and download new material, but once you download a book, you don’t have to have wifi to listen to it. Audible is a monthly subscription service for audiobooks—for a fee you can download one book per month. If you want more, you can buy individual books in addition to your monthly allotment. I cancelled Audible for the duration of my travels, so I didn’t pay the monthly fee but could still access the books I had already paid for. I had several to choose from, and, with Overdrive, was able to listen to many books as I rode the rails or waited for buses. I listened to music as well, but the majority of the time I listened to audiobooks. I have the Kindle app and occasionally read through the chapter of Rick Steve’s Europe Through the Back Door relevant to my next destination, but I don’t like reading ebooks and could do this in short doses only. Also, Rick Steves is annoying.

Pinterest
img_8087If you already like Pinterest, you are going to love it when you travel. I made Wanderlust board and throw all sorts of ideas on it before I left. Pinterest is great for finding travel bloggers who have very specific suggestions (“9 Free Things to Do in Dublin!”), including where to get gooey chocolate cookies in Amsterdam (Van Staple Koekmakerij, if you’re interested). Using Pinterest in conjunction with Yelp, TripAdvisor, and Google maps helped me figure out my day plan based on what food I want to eat—err and the famous places I might want to take pictures of. The bloggers of the internet can be hard to filter, but Pinterest helps. If you don’t already love Pinterest, it can be a hard app to learn on the go if it’s not your jam. Stick with Yelp and TripAdvisor.

 

 

Facebook Messenger
fullsizerenderKeeping in contact with people is dicey on the road. Most of my contacts have Facebook and by extension Facebook Messenger, so this was a natural choice. With the exception of Lil Bro, who is too low key for Facebook and preferred to use Viber, I checked in with everyone using FB messenger. It’s easy and probably most people you’re going to send 3AM humble brags to already have it.

 

That’s it for apps that help you find things to do and then tell people about them. Next time I’ll list some logistically important apps I wish I would have known about sooner!

The British Library, the V&A Museum, and a Goodbye

Yesterday I visited the British Library, which houses not only stories and stories of books, but also an exhibition of rare prints. Some of my favorites were sketchings by Da Vinci, first editions of Shakespeare’s epic poems, another copy of that darned Magna Carta, and really old maps, one of which I recognized as being of Amsterdam before I saw the label (first intellectual benefit of this trip confirmed!). There were plenty of other books as well–religious texts, scientific notebooks, musical notations, you name it. One thing about London that I really like is that exhibits like this are free to the public (donation box by the door).

img_7434

This sculpture of William Shakespeare greets you upon entering the library. This pose is so contrived–I wonder if he didn’t flop down on his belly, quill all agog, and make furious notes on the floor by the fire.

One rarity I was able to take a picture of was outside the main exhibition room. this is a really old book in an oyster shell.

img_7441

That’s a binding you don’t see every day.

In the center of the library this column of books spans the height of the building.

img_7438

I’m not sure how these books are accessed unless it’s automated. Surrounding this center piece you can find individual work stations. The actual reading rooms are in wings on each corner of the library, but you need a reading pass to get in to those rooms. I didn’t investigate getting a reading pass because I didn’t want to talk to anyone and I was afraid there would be a test. Anyway, the library was certainly an interesting place to visit regardless.

There was a PUNK exhibit outside the main exhibit hall dedicated to mostly Sex Pistols paraphernalia. The explanatory sign sports some of my favorite graffiti to date.

img_74371

Someone was a Slits fan (The Slits were an all-girl punk band, contemporaries of the Sex Pistols).

Today was my last full day in London/England/Europe.

I went to the Victoria and Albert Museum as part of my goodbye London tour. This museum has a little of everything and an especially good sculpture collection.

This guy seemed to be having a great time.

img_7469

I found St. George, hard at work against the dragon as per usually.

img_7493

And this sparkling example of mythological insanity.

img_7494

If you’re like me, you blocked the story of how Apollo SKINNED Marsyas alive as a punishment for losing a musical contest.

Here is a portrait of Henry VIII, who couldn’t/wouldn’t keep a wife.

img_7491

I need some strong weaponry to protect me from such a ladies man.

img_7482

Don’t worry, the V&A has you covered.

I also found an alcove of old books that did NOT have a “no photos” sign–amazing.

img_7489

img_7484

I even found a weirdo Jesus.

img_7479

In case you weren’t sure what was going down, that skull and crossbones should clear it up.

After the museum, I got off the metro at the London Bridge station and walked along the Thames. Today was a beautiful, sunny, warm day.

London has seemed the most like home with KB and all the mostly English speak. I feel strange leaving. Tomorrow by this time I will be on American soil once again. No more squinting at foreign coins, no more Googling tipping customs or bus ticket kiosk locations. No more jamming as much culture into my day as possible before curling up on a new bed and waiting to see if sleep will come. No more DEMON.

“Back to reality” people have said, but dealing with navigating new cities, new countries, new challenges has been more real than any normal day in Belmont. I don’t know how this will change my reality, if at all. I will have to wait and see.

Tomorrow I fly to North Carolina.

I am reading 11/22/63 by Stephen King.

Stonehenge

No visit to this adorable little island would be complete without a trip to Stonehenge. I signed up for a minibus tour for a day trip to Salisbury Cathedral, Stonehenge, and Avebury.

I was very excited to have a comfy seat on the bus.

img_7235

Even though the pickup time was before 730AM.

It was about two hours to the Salisbury Cathedral, which has not only the highest spire in the UK (3rd highest in Europe), but also the oldest copy of the Magna Carta.

img_7243

For scale, those white flags in the lower right-hand side are about eight feet tall. This cathedral is massive, and the spire can be seen for miles. The cathedral has all the arches and molding you would expect.

img_7252

img_7253

img_7264

Salisbury itself is a small town dominated by this impressive building. Grade school boys were jogging laps around it as I was taking pictures.

img_7261

The cathedral has an ante room dedicated to the display of the Magna Carta. There are several copies of the Magna Carta around, but this copy is labeled as the oldest, if not the original. This document was the first of its kind in that it limited the power of the king and held even him accountable to the law. It was signed by King John (Richard the Lionhearts’s brother) while Robin Hood was off somewhere creating his own set of rules. The document itself was large and written in such a neat hand that it looked fake. Oh, and it was in Latin.

Then we went to Stonehenge. A freeway runs very close next to it–so weird to see this ancient circle of stones from 60mph.

img_7293

Apparently the freeway used to be much closer to the circle! Hard to imagine that being the case. The circle is roped off so the tourists can’t get very close. You can walk all the way around it, though.

img_7295

One of the stones was leaning so much that it had to be cemented in place. Other than that, the stones are left to their own devices, safe from the selfie sticks and screaming children.

img_7333The wind carried the ripe smell of the next door sheep farm. Life goes on as the cars pass on the freeway and the sheep pull up the grass. Stonehenge was exactly like the pictures I’ve seen but completely different than I expected. I don’t know how to explain it.

Our last stop was Avebury, a small town encircled by monoliths you can actually touch. (Note: it’s pronounced Ave (rhymes with knave) – Bree (like the cheese), not “Ave-bur-y” like it’s spelled).

img_7367

img_7360

img_7358

There was a group of worshipers between two particularly large stones. They held hands in a circle and listened to drums. Nearby, a lady leaned her whole body against a stone for a long hug. I had my lunch leaning up against an unused rock. The fields here are open to the public. You just have to figure out how the gate unlocks.

There are two types of rocks at Stonehenge; one type is the type you see here at Avebury, which leads people to believe that this is where those rocks came from, but the other kind came from really far away. Part of the mystery is how those huge, extremely heavy rocks were transported before Amazon two-day shipping.

This day trip was especially fun because a) all the other passengers were old people b) the bus held only 16 people so it wasn’t overwhelming and c) I got to see one of the seven wonders of the world. I recommend a day trip like this, including Avebury, if you plan on visiting Stonehenge.

I am reading Stars Above by Marissa Meyer and The Night Manager by le Carré.

 

Stratford-upon-Avon

I visited the place of William Shakespeare’s birth and his burial site. Stratford-upon-Avon is about two hours from London by train, so I was riding the rails again. The only hiccup was that the bus that was to take me to the metro that was to take me to the train was late. I’ve taken this line several times and never waited more than the posted 8-12 minutes. I waited 20 minutes before I decided that if I ran to the metro station I would make it in time to catch the metro to catch my train. That may be so, but if I ran that far I might not make it in general (as in my body would die from torture/shock). Nonetheless I ran 30 steps and walked 30 steps all the way to the next bus stop, where I met the bus with that volatile mixture of relief and resentment. Relief and Resentment in Europe, that’s another good title.

So after I was drenched with sweat and had long since melted all my makeup off, I was on the train. Upon arriving at Stratford-upon-Avon, I wished I had done more than download the town map on my offline google maps cities list because I seemed to be on the edge of an endless brick housing development. Less than half a mile in, though, I was relieved to see the first of many Shakespeare tributes.

img_7081

Each of the four sides has a quote carved into the stone. Here are two:

“Ten thousand honours and blessings on the bard who has gilded the dull realities of life with innocent illusions.” Washington Irving

“Honest water which ne’er left man in the mire.” Timon of Athens

The other two were a bit cumbersome.

The town itself is adorable. Look, even the mail boxes seem cheerful.

img_7090

I had fish and chips (for the first time!) in the Garrick Inn, which claims to be the oldest pub or at least the oldest local pub.

img_7097

I am not sure why the American flag made an appearance, but I am fine with it!

I made my way to the Avon, which is just a bastardization of “river” or “stream” or “water” or something in another language, so there are actually several Avons in England that are separate and unrelated. Don’t get confused. There are also several Stratfords.

img_7131

This is the Avon.  After an excellent boat tour of not drowning I visited Holy Trinity, which is where William Shakespeare was baptized and (much later) buried. The church wasn’t agog to host his mortal remains; he paid to have them housed here.

img_7146

Past the  lady in the yellow is an alcove with several tombs, including Shakespeare’s and his wife, Anne’s.

img_7158

Here is a close up of that wooden carving on the bottom left.

img_7148

Just your common, everyday CURSE on a tomb. That’s our guy.

Down the street is the Royal Shakespeare Company Theater. They were playing Lear and Cymbeline.

img_7141

Throughout the town there are many references to our bard, including short quotes on the sidewalk. I found this one to be particularly relevant.

img_7102

I think this is from All’s Well that Ends Well.

Here is a bench.

img_7110

Because you can’t have just a regular bench! Side note, there WERE a lot of benches here which I really, really appreciate in a town. Probably because my fellow tourists were mostly old people (my people).

This house is where WS spent his formative years. I have seen only fancy buildings–palaces and castles–from this era, so I didn’t know what to expect.

img_71691

Maybe it’s just because I spent MY formative years in a trailer, but this place looks friggin nice. Look, it has TWO stories. I mean really! I guess I had imagined more of a thatched roofed shack!

Near his childhood home is the Jester.

img_7171

Four quotes–

“O noble fool! A worthy fool!” As You Like It

“The fool doth think he is wise. But the wise man knows himself to be a fool.” As You Like It

“Alas! Poor Yorick. I knew him, Horatio: A fellow of infinite jest.” Hamlet

“Foolery, Sir, does walk about the orb like the sun: it shines everywhere.” Twelfth Night

As I waited at the cutest train station in the world (observe)

 

IMG_7178.JPG

I found myself feeling almost nostalgic, though what for was unclear until I realized I missed the Oregon Shakespeare Festival in Ashland, and that the black and white buildings, the brickwork, and the names in Stratford-upon-Avon are imitated in Ashland. I was missing the copy when I was in the original.

I am reading All the Light We Cannot See and The Night Manager (things are finally starting to maybe happen in The Night Manager)