I visited the place of William Shakespeare’s birth and his burial site. Stratford-upon-Avon is about two hours from London by train, so I was riding the rails again. The only hiccup was that the bus that was to take me to the metro that was to take me to the train was late. I’ve taken this line several times and never waited more than the posted 8-12 minutes. I waited 20 minutes before I decided that if I ran to the metro station I would make it in time to catch the metro to catch my train. That may be so, but if I ran that far I might not make it in general (as in my body would die from torture/shock). Nonetheless I ran 30 steps and walked 30 steps all the way to the next bus stop, where I met the bus with that volatile mixture of relief and resentment. Relief and Resentment in Europe, that’s another good title.
So after I was drenched with sweat and had long since melted all my makeup off, I was on the train. Upon arriving at Stratford-upon-Avon, I wished I had done more than download the town map on my offline google maps cities list because I seemed to be on the edge of an endless brick housing development. Less than half a mile in, though, I was relieved to see the first of many Shakespeare tributes.
Each of the four sides has a quote carved into the stone. Here are two:
“Ten thousand honours and blessings on the bard who has gilded the dull realities of life with innocent illusions.” Washington Irving
“Honest water which ne’er left man in the mire.” Timon of Athens
The other two were a bit cumbersome.
The town itself is adorable. Look, even the mail boxes seem cheerful.
I had fish and chips (for the first time!) in the Garrick Inn, which claims to be the oldest pub or at least the oldest local pub.
I am not sure why the American flag made an appearance, but I am fine with it!
I made my way to the Avon, which is just a bastardization of “river” or “stream” or “water” or something in another language, so there are actually several Avons in England that are separate and unrelated. Don’t get confused. There are also several Stratfords.
This is the Avon. After an excellent boat tour of not drowning I visited Holy Trinity, which is where William Shakespeare was baptized and (much later) buried. The church wasn’t agog to host his mortal remains; he paid to have them housed here.
Past the lady in the yellow is an alcove with several tombs, including Shakespeare’s and his wife, Anne’s.
Here is a close up of that wooden carving on the bottom left.
Just your common, everyday CURSE on a tomb. That’s our guy.
Down the street is the Royal Shakespeare Company Theater. They were playing Lear and Cymbeline.
Throughout the town there are many references to our bard, including short quotes on the sidewalk. I found this one to be particularly relevant.
I think this is from All’s Well that Ends Well.
Here is a bench.
Because you can’t have just a regular bench! Side note, there WERE a lot of benches here which I really, really appreciate in a town. Probably because my fellow tourists were mostly old people (my people).
This house is where WS spent his formative years. I have seen only fancy buildings–palaces and castles–from this era, so I didn’t know what to expect.
Maybe it’s just because I spent MY formative years in a trailer, but this place looks friggin nice. Look, it has TWO stories. I mean really! I guess I had imagined more of a thatched roofed shack!
Near his childhood home is the Jester.
Four quotes–
“O noble fool! A worthy fool!” As You Like It
“The fool doth think he is wise. But the wise man knows himself to be a fool.” As You Like It
“Alas! Poor Yorick. I knew him, Horatio: A fellow of infinite jest.” Hamlet
“Foolery, Sir, does walk about the orb like the sun: it shines everywhere.” Twelfth Night
As I waited at the cutest train station in the world (observe)
I found myself feeling almost nostalgic, though what for was unclear until I realized I missed the Oregon Shakespeare Festival in Ashland, and that the black and white buildings, the brickwork, and the names in Stratford-upon-Avon are imitated in Ashland. I was missing the copy when I was in the original.
I am reading All the Light We Cannot See and The Night Manager (things are finally starting to maybe happen in The Night Manager)
paralyzedbynotcaring 